Embroidery: History and How It's Made

A timeless art form that weaves together culture, history, and personal expression, embroidered fabric has adorned human life for centuries. From the intricate patterns found on ancient garments to the elaborate tapestries that tell stories of empires, embroidery is more than just decorative stitching, it's a craft rich in tradition and symbolism.

The use and purpose of embroidery has fluctuated depending on time, location and the materials available which has resulted in extraordinary diversity. As famed embroiderer Saint-Aubin observed in 1770, “There is hardly a nation that does not embroider.” This journey through the history of embroidery will explore how this art has evolved so join us as we unravel the threads of history and discover how embroidery has stitched its way into the fabric of human civilization...

Embroidered materials are often opulent and eye-catching. They can be glittering and brightly coloured or subtle and simple, with the base fabric, generally woven so that it can easily be perforated with a needle.

Evidence shows that, by the fifth century, Chinese embroidery began to be traded across Korea and Japan. By the seventh century commerce had spread to Western Europe.

Sadly, few of these cloths survive today but the most famous tapestry is the Bayeux Tapestry. It is technically an embroidery and still exists. It is on display in Normandy, France. The 70-meter-long cloth was completed in 1077 and depicts the Battle of Hastings. This astounding work of art reveals how highly developed embroidery techniques were at this time. 

A sample from the Bayeux Tapestry, 1077 by John McLinden,

Many cultures use embroidery as a portrayal of important life events as well as symbols of cultural identity. One example comes from the Punjab region of India. Traditionally the bride's grandmother embellishes the wedding shawl. The embroidered flowerwork is in orange or yellow silk thread.

Whereas, in China embroideries most often use silk threads because ‘sericulture’ or silk production originated here around 3,000 B.C.E. Silk threads give the finished cloth a unique and shiny appearance that creates an almost glittered effect. 

The use of silk fabrics and threads spread from China throughout the world, transported along the ancient Chinese Silk Road by camel trains. Once they reached Europe, these products quickly became highly desirable luxury items.

Sadly, the expertise of hand embroidery needlework in Western countries has been largely lost to time. This is thanks to the invention of machine alternatives.

In 1855, the invention of the chain stitch machine marked the beginning of mass production of embroidered materials. These machines could make Tambour embroidery on net (Tambour, also known as Broderie Chainette and Broderie de Lunéville, is a technique used for beaded embroidery).

Two years later in 1857, the first chain stitch sewing machine in the USA was patented. By 1858, it was starting to be difficult to distinguish between hand-stitched and machine-stitched embroidery. In the 1870s and 1880s, however, the Arts and Crafts movement created a revival of hand stitching that kept it prominent until 1910. 

Left to right: May Morris’ notes and sketches from Embroidery lectures 1899-1902, WM Gallery; Advertisement for new brand of sewing machine from 19th Century USA, Digital Commonwealth; Embroidery Fabric from Morris & Co. Part of the Arts and Crafts Movement; Thimonnier's first machine, International Sewing Machine Collectors' Society

New and innovative ways of producing embroidery continue to emerge even today. Computerised embroidery machines can digitise patterns using sophisticated embroidery software. Machine embroidery is used to create logos and monograms for materials or clothing, as well as to decorate linens, draperies, and other fabrics.

There have also been exciting developments in free-hand machine embroidery, designed so that the user is able to produce free-motion embroidery. This is used in textile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home accessories, furniture and many more embroidered items.

Like many art forms, the techniques of embroidery have changed but the quality of the materials have not. Embroidery adds such depth and significance to fabric. It can be traditional and decorative or modern and patterned. Current embroidery designers such as Mulberry Home, Nina Campbell, Zoffany and GP & J Baker continue to offer a wealth of both.

Embroidery fabric is a versatile and timeless choice in interior design, adding charm and elegance throughout your home. However, we recommend featuring it on items that aren’t subject to frequent use or heavy wear and tear to ensure its intricate beauty remains intact over time.

Using embroidery fabric on curtains adds a touch of elegance and personalisation to your home. The intricate designs, whether subtle or bold, create a visual focal point that elevates the room's aesthetic. Embroidered curtains can bring warmth and texture, making a space feel more inviting and refined. The choice of fabric and thread can reflect personal style, whether through delicate floral patterns, geometric designs, or elaborate motifs. Additionally, the play of light through the embroidered fabric can cast beautiful shadows and highlights, further enhancing the ambiance. Embroidered curtains not only serve as functional window treatments but also as artistic statements that can transform a room's atmosphere.

Using embroidery fabric on headboards infuses a bedroom with a unique blend of texture, colour, and artistic detail. This approach transforms a simple headboard into a statement piece, adding depth and character to the space. Embroidered fabric also brings a sense of luxury and craftsmanship that elevates the overall decor. The tactile quality of the embroidery can complement other textiles in the room, creating a cohesive and inviting atmosphere. Additionally, an embroidered headboard can serve as a focal point, drawing the eye and setting the tone for the room's style, be it traditional, bohemian or contemporary. This combination of functionality and artistry makes embroidered headboards a chic and personalized choice for bedroom design.

Using embroidery fabric on cushions is an excellent way to introduce charm and personality into a living space. Embroidered cushions can serve as eye-catching accents, adding colour, texture, and intricate detail to sofas, chairs, or beds. These cushions not only offer comfort but also function as decorative pieces that can tie together various elements in a room. The unique textures and patterns of embroidered fabric create a tactile and visual interest that elevates the ambiance, making cushions both practical and aesthetically pleasing.