The History of Damask Wallpaper

Damask wallpaper is one of the best known historical wallpaper patterns and it continues to grow in popularity. Here's how damask patterns have evolved and why they're here to stay.

The earliest paper wall-hangings imitated the tapestries that came before them and therefore the textile designs. One of these was damask.

The earliest known wallpaper is thought to be a damask, according to the V&A. It was found in Master's Lodge in Christ's College, Cambridge. It is traditionally dated to around 1509 but is more probably late 16th century. It has a pomegranate design derived from a fabric.

Wallpaper became popular in Britain during the reign of Henry VIII after his excommunication from the catholic church. Tapestries were more difficult to import as there was less trade with Europe. This increased interest in wallpaper.

Later, Oliver Cromwell's firm hand soon put a stop to wallpaper sales. He viewed them as a frivolous indulgence. The restoration of Charles II then saw demand boom as the puritanical shackles were thrown off.

Hand-painting, woodblock painting and stencilling were the main techniques for creating patterns on wallpapers. This was up until 1700 when new methods were introduced.

The woodcut technique of printing became popular amongst up and coming gentry during the Renaissance. Tapestries, however, remained the mark of the aristocracy.

Damask design comes from the reversible pattern woven fabric. It is reversible precisely because the pattern is woven with the fabric.

It was common to use one colour fabric where the pattern appears silky and the ground matte. This is done through one warp yarn and one weft yarn. This style was one of the five basic weaving techniques of the early Middle Ages. Damask fabric was often made of silk and considered a luxury.

It also used a variety of patterns like fruit, flowers and animals. Later, there was even more variety like monograms, shields and full scenes.

The scrolled motif is based on stylised acanthus leaves and feathers. These were popularised during the Renaissance period and remain the most popular damask design.

Increasingly, more colours were also introduced into damask, gold was a particular favourite. Silk, however, lost its value as a key item of trade and currency. This led to a decrease in damask production.

Then in the 14^th century, draw looms brought damask fabric back into favour in Italy. The one colour damask patterns were once again in vogue. This trend then spread across Europe.

(Header image is Gisele Damask Wallpaper. Historical wallpaper from V&A Collections.)